Chocolate Chip Cherry Cookies

There's a bakery in the Ferry Building that makes wonderful chocolate chip cherry cookies. Rather than spending $2 a pop, I wanted to make my own cookies. I adapted a recipe from America's Test Kitchen. Using browned butter and all brown sugar gives the cookies a nice caramel flavor. I used dried sweet cherries in the recipe.

Chocolate Chip Cherry Cookies
Makes about 5 dozen cookies

14 T unsalted butter (1¾ sticks or 7 oz)
1¾ cups packed brown sugar
2 cups plus 2 T unbleached all-purpose flour (10½ ounces)
½ tsp baking soda
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
2 large eggs
1 T vanilla extract
12 ounces semisweet chocolate chips
1 cup dried cherries, chopped
1 cup chopped pecans

Heat 10 tablespoons (5 oz) butter in small saucepan over medium-high heat until melted, about 2 minutes. Continue to cook, swirling pan frequently until butter is dark golden brown and has nutty aroma, 1 to 3 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and transfer browned butter to large heatproof bowl. Stir remaining 4 tablespoons (2 oz) butter into hot butter to melt; set aside for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line a large (18 by 12-inch) baking sheets with parchment paper. (I used a silpat)

Add 1¾ cups brown sugar and salt to bowl with cooled butter; mix until no sugar lumps remain, about 30 seconds. Scrape down sides of bowl with a rubber spatula. Then add the eggs and vanilla and mix until fully incorporated, about 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the flour mixture and mix until just combined, about 1 minute. Give the dough a final stir with rubber spatula to ensure that no flour pockets remain and ingredients are evenly distributed. Add chocolate chips, cherries and pecans.

Drop by heaping teaspoonfuls onto the baking sheet. Bake 12 to 14 minutes. Do not overbake.

Cool cookies on baking sheet and then transfer the cookies to wire rack and cool to room temperature.

In praise of 1,000 calorie sandwiches

A cross-post from one of my other blogs.

Fried Chicken Sandwich...you know you want it

Now that my classes are over and my job doesn't start for another month, I really have no need to go anywhere. With the exception for Trader Joe's, I don't go outside. I've become agoraphobic.

In spite of my aversion to the great outdoors, I ventured over to the East Bay in search of the fried chicken sandwich at Bakesale Betty. The owner was the former pastry chef at Chez Panisse and she was profiled in the SF Chronicle last year. The article includes the recipe for the sandwich.

Since it was a beautiful day and I had some free time, I went off in search of the elusive sandwich. Sure, I really don't need to eat anything that has over 1,000 calories. But I love fried chicken and I love other 1,000 calorie sandwiches. I walked from the BART station to Telegraph, which helped to offset the caloric intake.

The bakery was a tiny operation on the corner of Telegraph and 51st. The sidewalks were lined with old benches and ironing board that doubled for dining tables. People were lined up out the door. That gave me time to peruse the menu selection. I passed on the strawberry shortcake, but I gladly accepted a ginger cookie that was handed out to waiting customers.

I waited for my turn at the counter and I was soon seated outside on a sunny street in Oakland eating a friend chicken sandwich. The verdict: it was pretty good. It's hard to go wrong with fried chicken and cole slaw on Acme bread. I may even venture back to East Bay for another sandwich run after I overcome my agoraphobia.

Lox of love

Nova lox and whitefish salad plate from Barney Greengrass

San Francisco may be a foodie destination, but there is a serious lack of good delis in the city. That's not to say there aren't good delis in California. I could name several in Los Angeles - Canter's, Junior's, Langer's and my favorite, Nate & Al's. It may have to do with the entertainment industry.

On my last trip to New York, I made a pilgrimage to Barney Greengrass on the Upper West Side. I had been to the one in Beverly Hills many times, but I needed to see the home of smoked fish.

There's something utterly simple and comforting about silky, salty salmon and cream cheese on a pumpernickel bagel.

How do I braise thee?

It's winter. And except for the past three days, it's been pretty damn cold, for San Francisco. The temps have been down to the 30s. This is the perfect time to make stew. I love braised dishes. They're usually made from the cheaper cuts of meat. The tendons and collagen breaks down during the long cooking process and makes for a rich, unctuous sauce.

I made Braised Beef Stroganoff from the NY Times over the weekend. The original recipe calls for beef tenderloin, but this recipe uses chuck roast. Right now, I'm on a student budget and filet mignon is a bit pricey.

Braised Beef ‘Stroganoff’

2 ½ pounds beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 medium yellow onions, peeled and sliced
½ cup white wine
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
¾ cup yogurt
2 tablespoons butter
8 ounces button or crimini mushrooms, stems removed and caps sliced
Cooked and buttered egg noodles (optional).

1. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Season the beef all over with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a stew pot over high heat. When hot, add the beef and cook, in batches if needed, until browned. Transfer to a plate.

2. Reduce heat to medium-low, add the onions and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened, about 15 minutes. Add the white wine, 2 cups of water and a pinch of salt, scraping the caramelized bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Return the beef and its juices to the pot and bring to a boil. Cover, place in the oven and cook until the beef is tender, about 2 ½ to 3 hours.

3. Transfer the beef and ¼ of the onions to a large plate. Purée the remaining onions and cooking liquid in a blender with the mustard and yogurt, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Return the beef and the reserved onions to the cooking pot and stir in the sauce.

4. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and sauté until tender. Season with salt, and add to the pot. If you choose, serve over buttered egg noodles.
Serves 6.
Adapted from Daniel Patterson.

Cooking with Google

A few years ago someone posted a blog post called "Cooking with Google." The idea was that you enter in the ingredients you have on hand and Google with find recipes for you.

Of course the good folks at Google latched onto that idea and came up with Google Base. Its one quick way to answer, "What's for dinner?"

Chicken with Riesling

I've been cooking up a storm lately. It's one way of dealing with stress. I made Coq au Riesling from Nigella Lawson. Chicken, bacon and wine - how could you go wrong? Yes, that's a half pound of bacon in the recipe.


Coq au Riesling

1 1/2 hour, plus overnight refrigeration (optional)

8 ounces sliced bacon, sliced crosswise into 1-inch pieces
3 medium onions, peeled and roughly chopped
10 chicken thighs, with skin and bone
8 ounces button mushrooms, halved
2 large or 3 small cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
3 tablespoons chopped tarragon
1 bottle dry or off-dry riesling wine.

1. Place large flameproof casserole or other heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat. Add bacon, and stir until it begins to release its fat. Add onions and sauté until softened, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer mixture to plate, leaving behind as much liquid fat as possible.
2. Place pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches (do not overcrowd pan), brown chicken pieces on both sides, transferring them to a plate after they are browned.
3. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add mushrooms, garlic, 3 tablespoons of parsley and 2 tablespoons of tarragon. Sauté until mushrooms are coated in fat, about 1 minute. Return chicken pieces, onions and bacon to pan. Add wine, and raise heat to bring to a boil. Partially cover, turn heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour.
4. To serve immediately, sprinkle with remaining parsley and tarragon. For best results, cool, and refrigerate overnight. The next day remove any chilled fat on surface with paper towels. Reheat gently, sprinkle with parsley and tarragon, and serve.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Ravioli with Pancetta, Peas and Crème Fraîche

My dinner tonight.
Wine: 2004 Navarro Vineyards Muscat Blanc

1 package Gorgonzola and Walnut Ravioli (as if I'm gonna make my own ravioli)
2 oz pancetta, diced
1/3 cup peas
1/2 shallot, minced
3 T. crème fraîche
2 oz Pt. Reyes blue cheese

Boil ravioli according to directions. Brown pancetta in a saucepan. Pour off excess fat, leaving about 2 teaspoons of drippings. Add minced shallots and saute until soft. Add peas and saute another 2 minutes. Stir in crème fraîche and blue cheese and cook until sauce thickens slightly. Add boiled ravioli and finish cooking in the sauce.

Memphis in May

I went to the Memphis World BBQ Contest over the weekend. I found myself in the South, despite my proclamations of, "I don't do Red States!" Well, where there's good food to be had, I'll probably show up.

The Whole Hog

The BBQ was very good. But since it is the South, you can get a variety of battered and deep-fried foods. I had my fair share of fried foods over the weekend, including fried catfish, fried hush puppies, french fries, fried pickles and fried chicken from Gus's. By the time I got back to California, I really wanted some steamed broccoli.

Fried catfish and hush puppies from Soul Fish

Gus's Fried Chicken is some of the best fried chicken ever made.


Fried Chicken, French Fries, Fried Pickles and baked beans at Gus's

Croque Monsieur

As it turned out, no one from wine club showed up, but a few friends did come over last night. We had the 2005 Domaine de Pellehaut Harmonie de Gascogne Rosé and the 2004 Domaine la Bastide Syrah. Continuing with the French theme, I served a cheese course with Comté and Parrano (not French, but a very good cheese), olives and anchoïade. For the main course, I made Croque Monsieurs.

Bechamel, bechamel mucho!

Ham, Gruyère and Bechamel Sauce on pain campagne

Un croque monsieur with roasted asparagus and courgettes

Top 50 restaurants - 2006

The top 50 restaurants in the world for 2006 has been published. #1 this year is El Bulli. The Fat Duck, last year's #1, dropped to #2. The list is compiled by Restaurant Magazine, which is a British magazine and would explain the inordinate number of UK restaurants on the list.

The top 10

1. El Bulli, Spain
2. The Fat Duck, UK
3. Pierre Gagnaire, France
4. French Laundry, California
5. Tetsuya, Australia
6. Michel Bras, France
7. Alain Ducasse - Le Louis XV, Monaco
8. Per Se, New York
9. Arzak, Spain
10. Mugaritz, Spain

"My soul hurts"

Saveur listed the 100 favorites of the food world. As with any list of favorite items, it is bound to be subjective. For whatever reason, Costco sheet cakes came in at #25. I thought it was a joke.

It seems that the writers of the Los Angeles Times Food Section had the same reaction as I did. So they had a taste test of the Costco cakes in their test kitchen. Apparently, the LA Times isn't as fond of mass market sheet cakes with artificially colored Crisco frosting as Saveur. My favorite line is, "My soul hurts."

We'll pass on the cake
Media Dish, Los Angeles Times

SAVEUR threw down the gauntlet. In its "Saveur 100," an annual listing in the January-February issue of the magazine's "favorite restaurants, food, drink, people, places, and things" from around the world, we were startled by No. 25: "Costco Birthday Cake." A $14.99 sheet cake large enough to serve as many people as its number on Saveur's honor roll? This is a "cake worth joining for," the item assured us. Of course, we had to try it.

Feeling sorry we hadn't invited a football league to join us, we bought and tasted three huge cakes, including the filled white cake with buttercream icing that drew the rave.

We assembled in the Test Kitchen. Slices were cut. A hush went over the room. We picked up our forks and began.

"My teeth hurt," said one taster after swallowing. "My soul hurts," said another. It was heavy and terribly sweet and coated the palate. We wondered whether it would even pass muster with 6-year-olds.

"I don't feel so well," said a third taster.

We looked at the list of ingredients on each of the three cakes. It was long and, frankly, scary.

We asked Times Health Editor Tami Dennis to weigh in. "I'm going to go out on a limb here and say this is not healthy," she said. "Tastes like sweetened Crisco to me."

It did to us too. With a long disodium phosphate finish.

Restaurant Review: Gary Danko

This is the review I wrote for Gary Danko a while back. I went for my birthday a few years ago.

I went to Gary Danko this weekend for my birthday. It was one of the best meals I’ve had in a long time. The food was amazing and the service was excellent. The wait staff was always attentive, but never intrusive on the meal. I went with the 5-course tasting menu with the matching wine selection.

First was the amuse bouche, which was a small bowl of thai coconut milk soup with smoked duck.

The first course I had was the glazed oysters with osetra caviar. The oysters were nice and briny, set off by a light, creamy sauce.

The seafood course was roast lobster with morels and asparagus on mashed potatoes. I thought the lobster was a bit tough, but the flavor was very good, especially the mushrooms.

The meat course was a beef medallion on a bed of nettle risotto. The beef was a nice medium rare and the nettle risotto was a good accompaniment.

Then came the cheese course. Several people mentioned that this was not to be missed. It was amazing. This was the best part of the meal. My favorite was a blue cheese from Australia called Roaring 40’s.

I had the chocolate sampler for dessert, which was comprised of a bittersweet chocolate tart, chocolate sorbet and a small mug of hot chocolate. The hot chocolate was just like Angelina’s hot chocolate in Paris and came with a chaser of milk.

The meal ended with a plate of cookies decorated with “Happy Birthday” and a cup of coffee. The check came out to be $300 for two of us and I’m hurting today from all the wine I drank, but oh what a meal!

Comments: This is the best restaurant in San Francisco.

Thanksgiving

I had a small get together at my place for Thanksgiving. Turkeys are a bit tricky since the white and dark portions cook at different rates. The breast side came out well, but the other parts were still underdone. However, one of the people insisted on having a wing.

The menu
Turkey
Gravy
Mashed Potatoes
Herbed Stuffing
Broccoli & Cauliflower
Baked Yams
Chocolate Pecan Pie
Champagne
Pinot Noir

Turkey


Sides


Chocolate Pecan Pie

Coq au Vin

Julia Child's version of Coq au Vin is one of my favorite cold weather dishes. I made it last week.

The supporting characters


Mmmm...BACON!!!


The big fry-up


We have stew!

Old-fashioned cooking

I have a weakness for cookbooks. But lately I've been into really old cookbooks. Among the ones I own are:



The 1896 Boston Cooking-School Cookbook - 1896
The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie - 1909
The Escoffier Cookbook - 1903
American Cookery - 1796

These books include recipes for such dishes as Braised Lettuce au Jus, Birds in Aspic, Kidney Pudding and Boiled Flour Pudding.

I will probably never make anything from these books, but I love reading these cookbooks because they are as much about culinary history as they are about social history.

Posh Nosh

Posh Nosh--my new favorite British comedy. At first I thought it was a real cooking show, since many of the shows on Food TV are about as ridiculous as this show.

Cheesy goodness

This is burrata. It is mozzarella made divine.



You must go out and find this cheese NOW!

Chocolate is good for you

According to a new medical study, eating dark chocolate can lower your blood pressure. A perfectly good reason to self-medicate.



Dark chocolate lowers high blood pressure
Mon Jul 18, 2005 4:25 PM ET

NEW YORK (Reuters Health) - Eating dark chocolate may help lower blood pressure, boost normal responses to insulin to keep blood sugar levels down, and improve blood vessel function in patients with high blood pressure, according to new research findings.

All of these effects would be expected to decrease the risk of heart attack and stroke. The report in the medical journal Hypertension is just the most recent to link dark chocolate with beneficial health effects. In an earlier study, consumption of the bittersweet candy reduced blood pressure and increased insulin sensitivity in healthy subjects.

To determine if this effect also applied to patients with high blood pressure, Dr. Jeffrey B. Blumberg, from Tufts University in Boston, and colleagues randomly assigned 20 subjects to receive dark or white chocolate for 15 days.

The researchers assessed blood pressure, insulin sensitivity, and blood vessel function with standard tests. White chocolate was selected for comparison because, unlike dark chocolate, it does not contain substance called flavonols, which are thought to be responsible for the apparent benefits.

Dark chocolate, but not the white variety, was associated with a significant drop in blood pressure. In addition, dark chocolate reduced LDL ("bad") cholesterol, enhanced insulin sensitivity, and improved blood vessel function. Still, the authors caution that patients with high blood pressure shouldn't start eating tons of dark chocolate as the confection does contain high amounts of fat, which may ultimately offset the benefits seen.

"The findings do not suggest that people with high blood pressure should eat lots of dark chocolate in lieu of other important blood pressure-reduction methods, such as medication and exercise," Blumberg said in a statement.

"Rather, we are identifying specific flavonoids that can have a benefit on blood pressure and insulin sensitivity."

SOURCE: Hypertension, July 18, 2005.

J'ai deux oeufs sur le plat

The LA Times had an article last week about French food idioms. Given how serious the French are about food, it makes perfect sense.



Some serious sorrel (de l'oseille): Plenty of money.

I could eat a parish priest rubbed with garlic (Je pourrais manger un curé frotté d'ail): I could eat a horse.

Oh, mashed potatoes! (Oh purée!): Darn it!

I can eat my soup on your head (Je peux manger ma soupe sur ta tête): I'm a head taller than you.

Zucchini (courgette): Head.

Coffeepot (cafetière): Head.

She's working from her coffeepot (Elle travaille de la cafetière): She's a bit out of it.

Worry about your own onions (Occupe-toi de tes oignons): Mind your own business.

Onions (oignons): Buttocks.

Make fried marlin eyes (Faire des yeux de merlans frits): Make goo-goo eyes.

Your rear end is surrounded by noodles (Tu as le cul bordé de nouilles): You're extremely lucky.

Go ahead, tall unhooker of sausages! (Va donc, grand dépendeur d'andouilles!): Go ahead, you big lug! (The guy who unhooks the andouilles from the ceiling must be very tall and not very smart.)

You're turning my blood into blood sausage (Tu me fais tourner le sang en boudin): You're worrying me.

To have two eggs on the plate (avoir deux oeufs sur le plat): To be flat-chested.

She has the banana (Elle a la banane): She's got a big smile.

That puts the butter in the spinach (Ça met du beurre dans les épinards): That's icing on the cake.

You want the butter and the money of the butter (Tu veux le beurre et l'argent du beurre): You can't have your cake and eat it too.

He's sugaring his strawberries (Il sucre les fraises): He's old and senile, one foot in the grave.

Fall in the apples (tomber dans les pommes): To faint.

To be a cooking oil (être une huile): To be high-ranked, a big cheese.

Land a peach (mettre une pêche): Punch someone in the face.

Ears like cauliflowers (des oreilles en chou-fleur): Big ears.

Make some salads (faire des salades): Tell tales out of school.

A veal (un veau): A sluggish car.

Push on the mushroom (Appuie sur le champignon): Step on the gas.

Make a total cheese (en faire tout un fromage): Make a big deal out of something.

She pedals in the sauerkraut (Elle pédale dans la choucroute): She doesn't understand diddly squat.

A noodle (une nouille): An idiot.

Right in the pear (en pleine poire): Right in the face.

Make the leek (faire le poireau/poireauter): Wait impatiently for someone.

Send the sauce (envoyez la sauce): Make an effort.

He has some brioche (Il a de la brioche): He has a potbelly.

She has the heart of an artichoke, she has an artichoke heart (Elle a le coeur d'artichaut): She's sentimental.

A big asparagus (grande asperge): A tall person.

Spitting in the soup (cracher dans la soupe): Being overly critical or ungrateful.

Send a chestnut (envoyer un marron): Punch someone in the face.

That's turning to vinegar (Ça tourne au vinaigre): The situation's out of hand/going badly.

He's not in his plate (Il n'est pas dans son assiette): He's not himself.

The carrots are cooked (Les carottes sont cuites): It's too late to do anything about it.

The end of the string beans (la fin des haricots): The biggest deal possible, in a catastrophic way.

Tarte à la Moutarde

This year's tart. It turned out pretty well. The flavor was very good. I will make this again once the dry farmed tomatoes are in season.